Tourism in North Korea is strictly on goverenments terms. The communist country allows a small influx of tourists, the easiest of which is to book a tour group. Many thanks to "Adventure Korea" for the incredible chance to visit this isolated destination.

Kim Jong II is the president and the ultimate leader. Need I say "propaganda"? Some of the rules that we had to abide by:

• No cell phones or other communicational devices
• No newspapers or magazines. Books are allowed, but the subject matter has to be taken into consideration.
• You must wear your ID tag at all times. This had your picture as well as info such as name, occupation, country of origin, etc. If questioned, you had to reciete exactly, as was presented on your ID tag. Fines occur if the ID tag was lost or damaged in any way.
• No smoking or spitting on the hiking trails (respectful and common sense anyway)
• No drinking or washing in the water. In South Korea, there are many water springs along the hiking trails, but in North Korea, the water is more precious.
• There are many large rocks engraved with progapanda. Do not touch, walk or lean on these. There are guides posted to ensure this.
• No pictures are allowed of North Koreans.
• Dare not talk to a soldier or take pictures of them.

Our passports were stamped at the South Korean Immigration Office and the North Korean Immigation stamped our ID tags, which were taken once the trip was finished. So there is no evidence on my passport that I was in North Korea, just that I had left South Korea. The soldiers and guards at the Immigation office and elsewhere were stern and immiating. They all had a red flag in hand and if this went up, you were in deep trouble. Dare not cross them!

My first impression of North Korea was serene. Everything was so quiet, the mountains lush and green. And so with the pretty painted picture before me, how can North Korea be so bad? But I knew that behind those mountains was a completely different story. A place were people can even be killed if they do not have a proper picture of thier leader proudly displayed in their homes. But this is what the tourists do not get to see.

Where we stayed was a resort like area with hotels and restaurants, among other conveniences. You weren't allowed to leave square, unless with the tour group. "Adventure Korea" had two tour buses, so my friend Richard and I traveled with about 90 other people, mostly foreigners. And there were many other tour groups staying at this resort. Things ran like clockwork. All of the tour groups left at the same time and returned at the same time to do such activities as hiking. No tour bus left without another one trailing its tail.

So despite the rules (I knew it could be much worse!), I had an awesome time. I hiked my ass off (sister would have been proud!)! Our first hike was the Guryoung Waterfall Course. This trail was about 8km long and took about 4 hours, following the flow of the valley and included a couple of swinging bridges! The views were incredible and many an oppertunity for photos! We also did another hike, Samilpo Lake, this one was much smaller but offer some breath taking views all the same.

After a much needed nap and some supper, we engaged in some drinking. North Korea has this sweet tasting honey beer, very smooth. So yummy that I had a few more! There was a band playing in the lobby of the hotel, they sang both Korean and English songs. Quite entertaining!

The second day was the hike of all hikes for this trip. This hike was about 4km long but took the same amount of time as the previous day. Manmulangsang has many sharp cliffs and slopes, with steep stairs to climb (Sister would have been very proud!). Somehow words cannot describe and would never do justice here. But to get to the peak was so worth it and it felt like I could climb another mountain! I was on top of the world!

"There's sweat in my eye, I thought that's what eyebrows were for!!"

After the hike, we relaxed in the lounge chairs outside and chatted with some very nice people that we met along the way. I introduced everyone to a thought provoking game, so we were engrossed. Before we knew it, it was time to leave.

It took a long time to clear the North Korean Immigation Office, and of course we had to wait for everyone else. Many fines were given out. Only one on our tour group though. A guy had gotten fined ($10) for having his ID tag wet. We spent the time in the back of the bus trying to figure out ways to take pictures of the soldier with the red flag. But in the end, we all decided that we wanted to not die!

Traffic prevented us from getting back until late. But that was okay as the bus ride was spent chatting and watching the big screen on the bus (Pride and Prejudice). A great ending to a wonderful adventure. And so now I can say that I was in one of the most controversial countries in the world, even though my passport doesn't say the same thing!